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Layering tint can be risky. In fact, tint distributors won't even warranty it if it fails. This is because tint absorbs heat. And when you have 2 layers, both holding a large amount of heat, one of them will eventually fail. It may last a year or it may last 5+ years, there's no real way of knowing. Especially, if the first layer was applied by someone else who was using a subpar quality tint.
Does this mean I won't do it? No. It just means I won't warranty it if/when it fails. If you already have your windows tinted and you just want to go darker without paying to have it stripped first, then sure, I can accommodate. But if it starts to bubble or peel later on, there's not much I can do other than give you a quote to remove it.
Another scenario would be if you had no tint at all but, my darkest tint (5%) just wasn't dark enough. To go darker, I could install the 5% and then follow that with another shade to go even darker. However, I would then have to charge double since I'm performing the same work twice. It's the equivalent of tinting 2 separate vehicles. And again, it wouldn't get a warranty for the same reasons mentioned above. If that's someone you're okay with, than I'll be happy to get to work.
The answer to this is almost always no. However, there are some cases when I will. First, I'll explain why I don't. If you've ever put a screen protector on a phone, you know that as soon as you peel that protective layer dust is immediately attracted to it - as if by some magnetic force. And then you get to look at that little speck of dust on your phone, trapped beneath the protective layer until you either get a new phone or peel the film off.
The same is true is for window tint, but on a much larger scale. This is why I prefer to tint in a garage where I'll have some protection from the wind. This doesn't mean that it will be 100% spotless because that's just not realistic. Dust hides in the window frames of even the newest cars. But this will greatly reduce it.
Here is the exception to my rule: Work trucks and the like. If you've got a vehicle that is mainly for work and not at all for show and you just want some relief from the heat, then sure, I'll be happy to tint it. But you've got to understand that there will almost certainly be little white dots here and there. Will it hinder the tint's performance? No. It just won't look as nice.
The reason I don't list my pricing on the website or on Facebook and Instagram is due the way some (not all) competitors like to do business. This has happened in the past where I've given someone a quote in a Facebook post and someone else swooped in to offer it at a lower price. It was like the Price is Right "One dollar, Bob!" Luckily, reaching me for quote is pretty easy. You can either text me at 904-385-3260 or Contact Me Here.
This varies based on the weather. If it's summertime and you've had it parked outside, you can open them within 24 hours. But if it's winter, you could be looking at closer to a week or more. The adhesive needs the heat to dry and fully cure, locking the tint in place.
This is moisture that couldn't be squeegeed out fully. It's completely normal and will dissipate as the tint dries. This could be as soon as 2-3 days in the summer or as long as a week or more in the winter.
The best way to clean your tinted windows is by using a soft cloth or regular paper towel. DO NOT use ammonia-based products such as Windex (unless labeled AMMONIA FREE). Over time, the ammonia could react to the chemicals used in the film and cause the window film to become hazy and blotchy.
Although I strive for perfection in my installations, due to the nature of the product and environment I’m in to install it (garage, outdoors, body shop, etc.), some degree of dust contamination and/or minor imperfections are present in every window film application. Also, pre-existing flaws or scratches and metal deposits on the glass are often much more noticeable after the windows are tinted.
Frit or Dot Matrix is found on certain windshields, side windows, and most back windows. This is a raised surface from the glass that usually borders the windows. As a result, films adhere poorly to this area. Resulting in a white/silver appearance from the outside when completely dry. Certain back windows have this matrix on the top which can be a few inches wide.
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